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A JOURNEY IN TO CAMPANIA

An itinerary for lovers of art, nature and good eating around Campania.

Rich in natural and cultural treasures, Campania has been included in the UNESCO World Heritage Programme, on the basis of the principle that, certain parts of special areas have a particular significance, justifying their preservation as elements of the World Heritage Programme: the historical centre of Naples (1995);Caserta Palace, the Vanvitelli Acquaduct and the San Leucio complex (1997); the Archaeological areas of: Pompei, Herculanium and Torre Annunziata (1997); the Amalfi Coast (1997) and the Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park with Paestum,Velia and the Chartreuse of Padula (1998). The Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park, is the result of the combination of both natural and human activity, so, re-enters under the category of evolutionary landscapes, because of the variety of changes caused by historical, social, economic, artistic and spiritual events, and its actual formation is ever adapting to its natural environment.

Our brief journey around Campania starts from Cilento, to be precise, from Santa Maria di Castellabate, a picturesque, fishing village, which has conserved its characteristics, intact, notwithstanding the ever-increasing tourism. The village is set in the centre of a large bay, confined by the two promontories, Punta Licosa and Punta Tresino. There are golden, sandy beaches, interrupted by rocky areas and all bathed by a sea, so clear, that it has been awarded the European Blue Flag for some years. In this natural semi-circle, we can find the original, fishermen’s terraced cottages and the original village, including the Palazzo Belmonte, residence of princes, past and present and the Villa Matarazzo, originally a residence of local nobility, now home to exhibitions and cultural events. Among the numerous noble mansions along the esplanade, the imposing, Aragonese tower, dominates the scene, almost hostile toward the tiny “Madonnina” opposite, protectress of fishermen, a ceramic creation from the only laboratory still able to hand craft, following the craftsmanship of ancient tradition. Numerous restaurants and pizzerias, bars and pubs, are ready to satisfy lovers of good food while offering a relaxing, family atmosphere. Between tranquillity and entertainment, all year round, Santa Maria di Castellabate, represents the ideal destination, not only for a delightful holiday, but also as an ideal starting point for excursions into the discovery of the nature, culture and history of Cilento and Campania.

The mediaeval centre of Castellabate, set on a hill, at 278m. above sea level, dominates the entire bay. The impressive castle, around which the town developed, was founded in 1123 by the Benedictine abbot, Costabile Gentilcore, from Cava dei Tirreni, as a stronghold against the devastating Saracen incursions. The original nucleus has conserved its characteristic structure so we can travel back in time, with houses terracing along the narrow alleyways, between low archways and up and down the many stairways and small flower gardens and narrow, hidden lanes to be discovered. All streets lead to the piazza, the personification of “la dolce vita”: an aperitif and a chat at the bar, then to sit on the wall which encloses this village social centre, the size of a pocket-handkerchief, and so await….the sunset! which, every evening, promises a unique, unrepeatable spectacular. Definitely, not to be forgotten… the view from the Belvedere, just below the castle: enjoy the sight of the entire bay set out before you, the coloured houses of Santa Maria, set along the sand and rocks of the beaches, San Marco and its ancient, Greek-Roman port and Lago, which, between Mediterranean greenery and golden beach, closes the gulf at its extremity.

Uncontaminated nature and untamed scenery, majestic mountains alternating with gentle valleys and deep gorges and evocative, picturesque villages characterize the hinterland of Cilento. Here, a secret chemistry combines nature, history, culture, tradition and Cilentan cuisine to welcome and astound visitors. Capaccio is worthy of being our first stop. Who wants to miss out on the real “mozzarella di buffala”? All dairies have a sales point where it is possible to purchase freshly produced mozzarella, because, while it is still warm, you can really taste its unique flavour; in other words, the sooner you try it, the better it will be! A word of advice; Never, keep Mozzarella in the fridge, always at room temperature, immersed in its own liquid, even during the summer months! Continuing toward the hinterland, north of Cilento, Castel San Lorenzo and a visit to the social canteen for wine-tasting, should not be passed up. The “Barbera”, produced here, undoubtedly deserves all its awards. From here, the next stop is Roscigno Vecchia, a village of evocative fascination and, since the strange events in 1902 and 1908; followed by two special laws regarding villages built in areas subject to landslides, the inhabitants began abandoning Roscigno village, reconstructing a new village a few kilometres away. Today the little village conserves, unchanged, the urban structure of the beginning of the century and, along with the now, crumbling houses encircling the piazza with its central fountain and the 17th century church of San Nicola, this represents an important testimony to the life-style of antique Cilento, as if here, time has stood still.

A one-day visit should definitely be dedicated to the Castelcività Caves, Oasi del WWF di Felitto, where the more courageous can canoe along the River Calore. So the Cilentan hinterland is a continual alternation between hill and mountain, interspersed with hidden villages, still tranquilly, untouched in their time-bubble. The older inhabitants of these villages, sitting in front of the bar, enjoying the warmth of the sun on their serene, lined faces, observe visitors with an air of indifference and explain how, with their slow pace of life and the mild climate, they conserve the secret of the celebrated, Cilentan longevity. In the southern part of Cilento, the abandoned village, San Severino Centola, strategically positioned on a rocky spur, blocking the way of the River Mingardo, merits a visit. It is worth the challenge of going up on foot! The area of Roccagloriosa, has several other small villages to visit.

The Cilentan coast is made up of golden, sandy beaches, sheer cliffs facing the sea, half hidden, silent bays and fishing villages alternating with tiny ports. The long list of coastal villages requires a long visit: Acciaroli, where, stopping off on his south bound voyage, Ernest Hemingway fell so deeply in love with the place that he was inspired to write his most famous book; Pioppi, with its marine museum and 17th century, Palazzo Vinciprova; the marinas of Casalvelino and Ascea, characterized by long, uncontaminated beaches, where one can walk endlessly between the dunes; Pisciotta, an original village, set among the mountains, on a hillside, at 170m above sea level. It is famous for olive oil and anchovies, “alici di menaica”, fished using an antique style net, a menaide, in dialect, “a menaica”, a tradition only found here; Palinuro, with its Blue Grotto, homonym with that of Capri; Marina di Camerota, best admired from the sea, to appreciate the beauty of its coast; The Golf of Policastro, with its picturesque fishing villages and sea front villas and the small town of Sapri, with its rock, “Scialandro”, and finally, all these places have the same, clear, blue, Mediterranean sea!

The original Greek name of Paestum, was Poseidonia, it was one of the richest towns of Magna Grecia, Poseidonia was founded by Greek settlers from Sibari at the beginning of the 6th century .C., in 273 B.C., it was conquered by the Romans, who further enriched it with monumental buildings: the forum, the thermal baths and the amphitheatre. In the 5th century A.D., Paestum became a diocese, but was evacuated in the 7th century, when malaria infested the whole plain. In fact the Sele Plain, a swampy area, was a general, source of infection, so, the population fled to a nearby hill, where they built a new town, today remembered by the name of Capaccio Vecchio. After being abandoned, Paestum and its temples were forgotten until their rediscovery in the 18th century. Today, the Paestum temples represent the most important testimony to Ancient, Greek culture, in Italy.

The ancient, Greek town of Elea, later called Velia by the Romans, was founded in 540 A.D. by Phocaeans, fleeing from Persian occupation and slavery. This population built a temple, probably in honour of Athena, then began commercial, fishing and navigational activities, they thrived economically while maintaining an excellent relationship with the native population. Not far from the sea and easily defendable, ancient Elea enjoyed an excellent position, but her real claim to fame comes from the renowned, pre- Socrates, Eleatic School of Philosophy, which was founded by Parmenides and his deciples, Zeno and Melisso di Samo, at the beginning of the 5th century B.C. The panorama from the”Porta Rosa” is not to be missed! Constructed in the middle of the 14th century B.C. at a very narrow point of a natural gorge and named after the discoverer, Mario Napoli’s wife, it joins the northern and southern quarters of the town. Even today, this archway is considered to be one of the oldest examples, if not the oldest, of this type of architecture.

The richness of Cilento is drawn, not only from art and culture, but also from nature. There is an extraordinary variety of stunning views, alternating between beach and cliff, coastal pinewoods and Mediterranean scrubland and dense woodland, mountains and hills, valleys and remote gorges. Monte Stella, (1130m), is the nearest mountain to the coast and the top can be reached in two hours, on foot, from the neighbouring villages or, more comfortably, after a short car drive. You could take advantage of the situation to enjoy a picnic!

Monte Gelbison, or Sacro Monte, (1705m), dominating the town of Vallo della Lucania, offers a 360° panorama of the surrounding area. Founded in the 10th century by Basilian monks, the church and the convent “Santuario della Madonna del Sacro Monte”, are visited by thousands of pilgrims from the whole of Southern Italy, between mid-May and the end of September. To the north-east of Vallo, rises Cilento’s highest mountain, Monte Cervati (1899m), where the various ways and trails form a star, all leading up to the small church, “Madonna della Neve”, at the top.

Monte Bulgheria (1225m) however, offers the most beautiful panorama in Southern Cilento, facing the expanse of greenery stretched out between the Golf of Policastro and Cape Palinuro. Being fascinated by the grandeur of San Lorenzo, of the Basilian monks of the Abbey of Montevergine, Tommaso Sanseverino II, bought the area of Padula, in the Vallo di Diano, in 1296. Later, in 1306, this nucleus was donated to the Carthusian monks, a religious order founded in 1084, by San Brunone in Chartreuse, France. The construction of the “Certosa di Padula”, dedicated to San Lorenzo, built in 1306 in the Carthusian province, “Sancti Brunonis”, was instigated and funded by Tommaso Sanseverino, Count of Marsico and Lord of Vallo di Diano. Today, after a long programme of restoration, the “Certosa” is resplendent in its restored, antique beauty. As well as being one of the largest monasteries in the world, it is among the most interesting in Europe because of its magnificent architecture. The historic town of Padula is well worth a visit, with its Christmas house-Museum of Giuseppe Petrosino, called “Joe”, who emigrated to New York in the second half of the 19th century. Here, he studied English at evening classes, then on 19-10-1883, enrolled in the New York police force, demonstrating a passion for his work: great flair, intelligence, sense of responsibility and high level of professionality. He had one great dream and aim in his life: to defeat the Mafia, then known as the Black Hand.

Teggiano, near Padula, a mediaeval fortress town, merits a visit. Well endowed with churches, it holds treasures of inestimable value. Then, along the state road toward Sala Consilina, there is the renovated “Batistero Paliochristiano Marchellianum”, dating back to 306-309. A short distance away, the well-known caves of Pertosa provide a very memorable visit, including a short, boat crossing over a small lake, formed by an underground river, after which, it is possible to continue, on foot, along the few hundred metres of various caverns.

Salerno flourishes between the Amalfi coast and Cilento, facing the homonymous gulf and overlooked by the castle of the Arechi princes, founded in the 7th century a.d., which today houses a fine ceramic museum. The picturesque, Via dei Mercanti, leads into the mediaeval centre, a labyrinth of narrow alleyways and lanes where today, carpet-makers, carpenters and blacksmiths, still follow their trades in the tiny shops.

Noble houses, recently restored to their original splendour, flank the esplanade, which is now famous for its night-life. Nightclubs, some in basements, and old warehouses are re-born as restaurants, cafeterias, bars and pubs, attracting the young and the not so young, from all around the province. The cathedral, founded in 1079 and dedicated to Saint Mathew, is one of the most important examples of Romanic art in Southern Italy, also renowned, is the Church of Saint Gregory, where today, the “Museo della Scuola Medica Salernitana” is housed, in memory of one of the most important medical centres in the kingdom. The so-called, “divine coast, begins at Vietri sul Mare, facing toward the Gulf of Salerno and famous for its ceramics. From a distance, standing out against the blue sky, it is possible to identify the church of San Giovanni Battista, (Saint John the Baptiste), by its remarkable dome, covered in majolica. Simply called “l’ Amalfitana”, by the locals, the narrow coast road meanders upward, along the mountain tops and downward, along the sea front. Small fishing villages, Minori, Maiori, Furore etc. invaded en masse, by summer tourists, return to the tranquillity and silence of a bygone age during the winter. The Amalfi Coast has been made famous by its well-known resorts, firstly, Amalfi, the oldest Marine Republic, which dominated maritime traffic between the 9th and the12th centuries. The Amalfi cathedral is reached via a steep flight of steps, which seems to lead to a paradise on earth, opening into a labyrinth of alleyways and tiny, white houses, kindling thoughts of the orient. A sea trip will bring you to the Emerald Grotto, the “Gemma della costa d’Amalfi”.

Immersed in nature, set on the spur dividing the Valleys of the Dragon and the Queen, Ravello looks down, over Minori and Maiori, from its 350metres above sea level, from where one can enjoy the unique, sublime panorama. There is austerity and stillness in its aristocratic elegance, the fascination of which has attracted many famous artists, actors and writers and the garden of the Villa Rufolo inspired Richard Wagner to write his Parsifal.

Without doubt, Positano is the most chic resort. Discovered in the 20’s, by intellectuals and artists, then in the 50’s by the elite of the international cinematographic industry, the calm, modest fishing village has now become one of the most famous and most expensive resorts in Italy and the world. Seen from the sea, the multi coloured houses seem to be small, cardboard boxes, glued onto a rocky backdrop. Today, elegant boutiques, gourmet restaurants and five star hotels abound. The so-called “moda Positana”, born in the village streets back in the 60’s, brought world-wide recognition and popularity. Fortunately, all this fame and the onset of the future “jet set”, have not destroyed the innate fascination of Positano so, for those who are able to enjoy the luxury of a low season visit, the real, natural beauty, awaits. This is also true for all the “costiera”, which shows itself at its most divine, in the quiet months.

One of the most celebrated, European capitals in the 18th century, Naples was an essential stop for the cultured travellers on the “Grand Tour” of Italy. It was the German philosopher and literary critic, Johann Gottfried Herder, who, in his poem, “Ricordo di Napoli”, first defined the Napolitan setting as “l’ Arcadia”, a background of reminiscence. The legend of Partenope, the mythical mermaid, who, becoming victim to Ulysses’ guile, threw herself into the depths of the sea, from where she still keeps watch over the city, being one of the clearest illustrations of the essence of Mediterranean life. Picturesque lanes and noisy piazzas; old districts, where the sounds of daily life arise in the narrow roadways, entangling with the colourful washing, hung out on lines stretching from house to house; the elegant tourist port; the luminous, Umberto I Gallery, with its luxurious boutiques; the impressive, Piazza Plebiscito; the convent of Santa Chiara; the cathedral dedicatad to San Gennaro; the San Carlo Theatre; the Spanish Quarters; Capodimonte; The National Archaeological Museum; Castel dell’ Ovo; Il Vomero; Castel Sant Elmo; Mergellina; Posillipo……. Unique itinereries in a city, full of contrasts, symbol of the joie de vivre, where the most widespread philosophy is that of “fend for yourself.

The territory of Caserta, extending to Capua, is a living witness to an extremely rich and important part of Italian history as, over the centuries, it has been occupied by. Greeks, Romans; Sannites Byzantines; Normans and Bourbons.The magnificant “Reggia di Caserta”, is set in the middle of, Campania Felix, as the Romans called this region, as far as the river Volturno. In 1752, with the formal laying of the first stone, Charles III of Bourbon, began the construction of this building, symbol of splendour and monarchic patronage, but above all, his own absolutism. For its opulence, the palace is a worthy rival to the Sun King’s Versailles, befitting, as Charles III was his great grandson. The king awarded the project to Luigi Vanvitelli, although he himself, made a noteworthy contribution to the elaboration of the general plan. Instead of the estimated ten years, completion took twenty-two. The rectangular format extends over 45,000metres square, with four internal courtyards and five floors and is surrounded by an immense park designed by Vanvitelli. The main façade is interrupted by three entrances, two doors and two hundred and forty-three windows; internally, the palace houses 1220 rooms! The main attraction in the park is the spectacular fountain, personally organized by Carlo Vanvitelli, where the water plays, spurting out at will.

Charles III organized the excavations of Herculaneum (1738) and Pompei (1748) then, in 1754, ancient Paestum was discovered, so in the 18th century, the “Grand Tour” travellers were attracted and the areas around Naples became irresistible stops for illustrious intellectuals and artists. The history of Pompei evolves under the shadow of Vesuvius. The volcanic eruption in 79a.d. did not only destroy a vivacious, flourishing city, but also a refined culture, that had begun with the foundation of Pompei in the 7th century b.c. The remains of the houses, gardens, temples and villas, decorated with prestigious frescoes, many still to be seen today, bear witness to the grand past of the Roman city.

Torre Annunciata, a few kilometres from Pompei, is not only known for being the starting point of the climb up to Vesuvius, but also for the Villa Oplontis, built in the 1st century b.c. Herculaneum is found by continuing along the road toward Naples. As vivacious Pompei was important from religious, economic and cultural, points of view, Herculaneum was the chosen summer residence of the rich, noble families; Patrician villas with opulent decoration and attractive centres, dedicated to sport and games, characterize the ancient Roman city. With the 79a.d. eruption of Vesuvius, all the splendid villas, enriched with mosaics, frescoes and artistic carpentry, were buried by a dense layer of mud, but it is thanks to this very layer, that most have been preserved over the centuries. Tody it is possible to admire a selection of most of these treasures in the archaeological museum in Naples. In Herculaneum, the “Casa dell’Atrio a Mosaico”, constructed with almost modern, architectural principles, has remained remarkably intact; the “Casa del Tramezzo di Legno” on two floors and the “Casa dei Cervi” whose mosaic floors illustrate deer being assailed by dogs, are all “not to be missed” venues.

This ancient region, characterized by a continually active volcanic system, was a favourite stopping place among the lovers of art and culture heading southward, with the “Grand Tour” of the 18th century. Cuma the main Greek colony on the mainland of Italy, founded by the ancient Greeks in the 8th century b.c. and later, the new city of Partenope, or Neapolis, or today, Naples. The “Campi Flegrei”, with the Flavio di Pozzuoli amphitheatre, the solfatara - a dormant crater, the temple or Serapea, the Rione Terra, where today, an intense recovery programme is concentrated, The Archaeological Museum of the Bay, and the excavations with their “Grotto of Sibilla” Cumana…..If, the Campi Flegrei is the region of the destiny of all ancient poets around paradise and hell, as Herder defined it, then Johann Wolfgang Goethe’s visit on the first of March 1878, during his “Journey to Italy”, was a trip “under the purest sky, over the most treacherous earth” and the sight of the Solfatara gave rise to his thoughts of “the changing courses of nature and history”.

It takes few words to describe the islands of the Gulf of Naples: Ischia, already famed by the Romans 2000 years ago for its thermal baths; Capri, world famous as an earthly paradise and not only for its Blue Grotto; Procida, renowned for the elegance of a mundane life, secluded and tranquil in her simple, untamed beauty. It was not a random choice that Massimo Troisi’s film “Il Postino”, was made here, telling about Pablo Neruda’s years of exile in Italy. Ships and ferries link the islands to the mainland, leaving from Salerno, Naples and Sorrento. During the high, tourist season, the “Metrò del Mare” links some Cilentan ports to Capri.